How to get the sweet confection of your dreams

Variety is not just the spice but the sweetness in life, according to master chefs across the country, who maintain that though the traditional all-white wedding cake is making a big comeback, today's choices run from contemporary cube to Edwardian extravaganzas, and what you finally pick is largely a matter of taste.


Infinite possibilities
You can have your choice of just about any shape-round, square, diamond, heart-shaped, etc.-some 15 basic cake flavors-white, yellow, carrot, hazelnut, orange, mocha, chocolate, among others-and 30 fillings-raspberry, orange Grand Marnier, lemon, chocolate mousse, you name it-or better yet, for those who like to mix and match, says Mike McCarey, of John & Mike's Amazing Cakes in Redmond, WA, any combination of the above: "It's hard to please 200 people with just one flavor."

Low wire act
Ideally, the cake should reflect the personal tastes and interests of both you and your fiancé. But if you can't seem to come to some sort of compromise, you could take another approach and order his 'n hers bride's and groom's cakes. Gail Watson, of Gail Watson Custom Cakes in New York City, says one of her most memorable weddings was between a gymnast and a ballet dancer. The bride had a cake that looked like a dancer's tutu, while the groom's cake had a circussy theme, and stretched between the two was a...tightrope wire!

Top billing
Wedding cakes are traditionally crowned with a special cake top. This can be the customary figure of a bride or groom, says master cake designer Ron Ben-Israel of New York City, or something rife with symbolism, such as swans for never-ending love, marzipan for a fruitful life, and gold for abundance.

Taking the cake
When should you order the wedding cake? At least six to eight weeks in advance, if you want to make sure you get exactly what you want, and, says McCarey, during popular seasons you should perhaps put down a deposit even earlier.

Costs range from $1 to $10 or more per slice in a large metropolitan area like New York City, says Watson, depending on exotic ingredients or detail. Some of the fancier cakes, however, come at a flat rate, with averages of $1,500 to $4,000 and up.


Slicing the price
How to narrow down the field when your eyes may be much bigger not only than your stomach-but than your budget? By having a smaller display cake and serving a sliced sheet cake, or what McCarey calls "side cake."
When you're shopping for your delectable confection, keep the following pointers in mind:

• Comparison shop. You should meet with at least three bakers to get an idea of different styles and prices before making up your mind.
• Ask to see photos of their cakes. Make sure pictures represent the work of their current decorators, not past staff. Insist on a tasting. Of course, you want your cake to be a dazzling showcase, but it should also be as pleasing to the palate as it is to the eye.
• Discuss the size, site and season of your wedding. If you're having an outdoor wedding in June, for instance, you want to be sure the buttercream will hold up in the summer heat.
• Be open to new ideas. You probably think you know exactly what you want, but the baker may have suggestions for combinations-and creations- you never dreamed possible.